
There are certain moments in life that change you, that can even change your life. This morning, I had one of those moments that lasted for two hours. Today was my group’s turn to go on a boat to a deserted beach. This alone would have been a great experience, we even saw a family of humpback whales on the way out. Just paddling from the boat into the lineup, I realized it was going to be a good day. The swell actually did come in last night, and conditions were perfect.
The first wave I paddled into, I caught and rode all the way in. I paddled back out, turned around and caught the next one. All of a sudden, everything the instructors taught me came together, and I was SURFING!!!!! After the third time of laughing the whole ride down the wave, I realized surfing had just become a part of my life. Whether it’s traveling to surf, going to a grad school on the coast, or maybe even moving permanently; I’m going to learn to be a decent surfer.
Without the Las Olas experience, which includes all the lessons, instructor feedback, supportive learning environment, and even a boat ride, there is no way I’d even be close to actually realizing what it means to surf. I feel so lucky I ended up here in Sayulita, Mexico at this particular surf camp. Well, I’m off to our last dinner together, followed by a dance party at Calypso where we get to be the DJs. Me, DJ at a dance party? Now that’s something I do know how to do well! Look for tomorrow’s last entry!!!!
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